How and when did you enter the wine industry; what motivated you?
I entered the wine industry in 2004 after being presented with an opportunity to purchase Victoria Estate Winery in Victoria. When I initially purchased the property it was intended to be relatively hands-off investment; however, very quickly I found myself wanting to rebuild the winery into one of BC’s top producers. Once I got that in my head I became really hands-on and the winery became my top priority.
What is your winemaking philosophy?
I believe great wine starts in the vineyard. Creating a program for your vines, but being able to read and respond to them throughout the year is crucial. In the cellar, we aim to guide those grapes into a unique style that is a balance between approachability, layered complexity, and cellar worthiness. I feel proud of the fact that we’re totally committed to quality at Church & State – if something isn’t up to standard we just won’t bottle it. If we’re not happy with it, the only way it’ll leave the cellar is through the drain.
What is your favourite part of your job at Church & State?
Harvest. It’s a hard time of year to say that, after having just spent 6 weeks working long, hard hours, but it really is. Harvest is when everything finally comes together after a long summer in the vineyard, and we get to start searching for those special barrels that will eventually make it into our Quintessential, or even some of our micro-lot projects.
Is there something about your job that would surprise people?
That we don’t stand around the cellar all day swirling wine glasses.
Which of your wines, or the winery’s accomplishments, have you been particularly excited about or proud of?
I would say I’m most proud of the consistency of quality in our Quintessential program. It’s a wine that, going back to our first vintage in 2005, you can see a progression of improvement, but a constant style of this big, soft, complex red that has consistently been amongst the best in the country.
Looking forward, I’m most excited about working more with Terroir BC and starting to build the brand of the Wines of Canada even further. I feel the industry is on the cusp of entering a new era of Canadian winemaking where we could see some really big, positive changes. I’m excited to be a part of that and do what I can to help facilitate change.
In your opinion, what are the best and worst things that have happened to Church & State over the years?
The best would be the decision to go all estate. In 2009/2010 we made a big push to farm only our vineyards. I feel the control that affords you towards making truly top tier wines is unparalleled. Any time we bring grapes in from outside vineyards the quality is never the same. The worst would be the 2008 vintage. Between a troublesome vintage, moving our production facility to the Okanagan from Victoria, and some crucial errors in the cellar, we only released two reds from that year – the rest went down the drain.
Is there someone in the local wine industry who inspires (or perhaps challenges) you?
I’m most inspired by my fellow members of Terroir BC. They’re a collection of people that share the same value of quality and are committed to producing the best 100% grown and made British Columbian wines.
What is your favourite type of wine or wine region outside of British Columbia?
I find myself drawn to many different regions for lots of different reasons. Each region has its own terroir and style, their own charms. I like to get down to California when I can, I love the merging of architecture, food and wine there and I feel very inspired after each visit. Some of my most memorable experiences have been in New Zealand though – there’s a vibrant sense of community there I relate closely to our wine community here in BC.
What do you do to relax outside of the wine world?
I enjoy traveling during the winter months, and going for walks or cycling during the busy summer months.
In a perfect world where money, time, and climate don’t matter, is there a particular wine you would like to produce (e.g., something you don’t/can’t make right now)?
Pinot Noir. Our vineyards in the South Valley aren’t ideally suited to the grape, but if we could find the perfect spot I’d really enjoy making really high end Pinot Noir again at Church & State.
What are some of your plans for the future of Church & State?
I’d like to see us break into the 20,000 case range. I’ve been hesitant because I don’t want any growth to come at the expense of quality, but I’m confident we can gradually build Church & State to that level without making sacrifices. We’re close, we just brought in about 16,000 cases equivalent this harvest, but it’s been a slow process getting to this point, so we’re in no rush.